Category: Tea Types (3)
Tags: lapsang souchong, zheng shan xiao zhong, chinese black tea, smoked tea, original black tea, wuyi rock tea adjacent, wuyi black tea, lapsang souchong brewing, lapsang souchong vs keemun, real lapsang souchong, smoked black tea history
Lapsang Souchong is the most misunderstood tea in the Western world. The version most people know — the one that smells like a campfire and tastes like a wet ashtray — is a modern, over-smoked imitation. The real Lapsang Souchong, the original Chinese black tea, is a completely different drink: a fragrant, fruity, long-grained black tea with a soft woodsmoke finish that complements rather than overwhelms the leaf.
This guide is the orientation I’d give a friend who said “I tried Lapsang Souchong once and hated it.” We’ll cover what the tea actually is, why it was the first black tea in Europe, the difference between traditional Zhengshan Xiaozhong and the cheap smoked version you’ve probably met, how to brew it properly, and how to find a real one if you want to try again.
The Quick Answer
Lapsang Souchong (正山小种, Zhèng Shān Xiǎo Zhǒng) is a Wuyi Mountain black tea from Tongmu Village in Fujian Province, China. It’s the original Chinese black tea — the one that traveled to Europe in the 1600s and became the model for what the British later called “black tea.” The traditional version is lightly smoked over pine wood during drying, giving it a soft woodsmoke note balanced against dried longan, honey, and chocolate. The cheap version flooding Western markets is heavily smoked later in processing to imitate the look and feel of real Lapsang, and it’s the source of most Western disappointment with the tea.
If you’ve only had the over-smoked version, you’ve never actually had Lapsang Souchong.
What “Lapsang Souchong” Actually Means
Let’s get the name out of the way, because it confuses everyone.
The English name “Lapsang Souchong” is a Romanization of the Min Nan pronunciation Lā-sông Siáu-chióng, used by coastal Fujian traders in the 17th century. Modern Mandarin is Zhèng Shān Xiǎo Zhǒng (正山小种). Both names mean the same thing:
- 正山 (Zheng Shan) — “Correct Mountain,” referring to the Wuyi Mountain protected region in northern Fujian
- 小种 (Xiao Zhong) — “Small Variety,” referring to a specific cultivar of Camellia sinensis traditionally used to make this tea
“Souchong” was the Western world’s earliest contact with what we’d later call “black tea,” and the name stuck even after the tea itself was rebranded by Keemun, Darjeeling, and other origins over the following centuries.
The Two Lapsang Souchongs
This is the critical distinction, and it’s why your first experience with this tea may have been bad.
1. Traditional Zhengshan Xiaozhong (传统工艺正山小种)
This is the original. Made from Xiaozhong cultivar leaves grown above 700 meters elevation in Tongmu Village (桐木关), inside the Wuyi Mountain protected nature reserve. After rolling, the leaves are dried over pine wood fires in bamboo baskets called qing lou (青楼, literally “green building”). The smoke rises through layers of leaves, infusing them with a gentle, integrated woodsmoke that complements the tea’s natural dried-longan and honey notes.
The result is a tea where smoke is a note, not the whole song. You can still taste the tea underneath: sweet, fruity, almost like a dark honey-drizzled fig.
2. Imitation Lapsang (烟小种 / 外山小种)
This is what’s in most tea bags and most supermarket tins labeled “Lapsang Souchong.” It’s made from lower-elevation tea from outside Tongmu (often from Sichuan, Hubei, or even Vietnam), processed as a regular black tea, and then heavily re-smoked at the end of processing to imitate the appearance and aroma of the real thing.
The smoke in imitation Lapsang is applied, not integrated. It hits you on the nose before you even brew it, dominates every sip, and never fades. There’s no underlying tea flavor to speak of, because the underlying leaf is cheap. This is what most non-Chinese speakers mean when they say “Lapsang tastes like a campfire.”
How to tell them apart
| Aspect | Traditional Zhengshan Xiaozhong | Imitation Lapsang |
|---|---|---|
| Origin | Tongmu Village, Wuyi Mountains | Anywhere outside Tongmu |
| Elevation | 700–1200m | Usually low elevation |
| Cultivar | Xiaozhong or similar | Whatever is cheap |
| Smoke intensity | Light to medium, integrated | Heavy, applied |
| Flavor under smoke | Dried longan, honey, fig, malt | Almost none |
| Liquor color | Bright amber-orange | Muddy dark brown |
| Aroma | Smoke + fruit | Smoke only |
| Price (50g) | $15 – $40 | $3 – $10 |
| Where to find | Specialty importers | Supermarkets, tea bags |
If the tea smells like a campfire in the bag, you’re looking at imitation Lapsang. If it smells like a campfire with fruit and honey underneath, you’ve got the real thing.
A Very Brief History of Lapsang Souchong
Lapsang Souchong has the longest documented history of any black tea, and understanding it makes the modern confusion make sense.
1604: The First Recorded Mention
Lapsang Souchong is first documented in Xu Wenhai Zhipu (徐文海植谱), a botanical text from the late Ming dynasty. The tea was being produced in Tongmu Village at scale and was already considered a regional specialty.
1610: First Export to Europe
Dutch traders of the Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie (VOC, the Dutch East India Company) purchased Tongmu tea through Macau and shipped it back to Europe. The tea became a luxury item in the Dutch Republic and, through the VOC’s English partners, in England. The English word “tea” (from Hokkien tê) entered the language during this period.
1662: Catherine of Braganza and the British Adoption
When Catherine of Braganza, a Portuguese princess, married King Charles II of England in 1662, she brought the Portuguese tea-drinking habit with her. Lapsang Souchong — or what passed for it in European warehouses — became fashionable at the English court. The British state later guaranteed tea supplies through the Canton System and, eventually, the East India Company.
1840s: The Invention of “Bohea”
For most of the 18th and early 19th centuries, virtually all tea imported into Europe was called “Bohea” — a corruption of Wuyi (武夷), the mountain where Tongmu is located. “Bohea” became a generic term for any black tea in the European market, even when the actual tea was from different origins or was a completely different style.
This is the origin of the confusion. When you see “Bohea” in 19th-century British documents, you’re looking at a generic stand-in for Chinese black tea, of which Lapsang Souchong was the most prestigious example.
1880s: Keemun Takes Over
In the 1880s, Keemun black tea from Anhui Province entered the European market at a lower price point than Lapsang Souchong and quickly became the dominant Chinese black tea in Western markets. Lapsang Souchong retreated to a specialty position and has stayed there ever since.
2000s–Present: The Smoke Wars
In the early 2000s, imitation Lapsang flooded Western markets as a “weird tea” novelty. Most Westerners who tried it assumed they were tasting the real thing, didn’t like it, and wrote off Lapsang Souchong entirely. Specialty importers who carried authentic Tongmu tea found themselves explaining the difference to every customer.
For more context on how Chinese black tea fits into the broader category, see our what is Chinese black tea guide.
How Lapsang Souchong Is Made
The traditional process is similar to other Wuyi black teas, with one signature step.
Step 1: Plucking
Plucked from late April to early May, when the leaves are tender but mature enough to hold up to the withering and rolling. The standard is one bud with two to three leaves, hand-plucked.
Step 2: Withering (萎凋)
Fresh leaves are spread out on bamboo mats in ventilated rooms for 8–12 hours. The leaves lose about 60% of their moisture and become pliable enough to roll without breaking.
Step 3: Rolling (揉捻)
The leaves are rolled by hand or machine to break the cell walls and start the oxidation process. This is a longer, more intense rolling than what green tea uses, because the goal is to expose more leaf juice to the air.
Step 4: Oxidation (发酵)
The rolled leaves are piled in cool, humid rooms for 4–8 hours. During this time, the leaf juices interact with oxygen, the catechins convert to theaflavins and thearubigins, and the leaf turns from green to copper-brown.
Step 5: Smoke Drying (烟熏) — The Defining Step
This is what makes Lapsang Lapsang. The leaves are placed on bamboo grates above a pine wood fire in the lower chamber of a qing lou (青楼), a traditional two-story bamboo drying building. Pine smoke rises through the leaves over 8–12 hours of slow drying.
The pine wood used is Masson pine (马尾松), native to Wuyi Mountain. It produces a sweet, resinous smoke that’s very different from the harsh creosote-like smoke of hardwood fires.
Step 6: Sorting and Grading
After drying, the tea is sorted by leaf size. Higher grades use younger, more tender leaves. Lower grades use older leaves.
The whole process takes 3–4 days from plucking to finished tea.
How to Brew Lapsang Souchong
Lapsang Souchong is more forgiving than green or yellow tea, but the smoke flavor can dominate if you over-brew. Here’s the method I’d recommend.
Gongfu Style
- Teaware: Yixing or porcelain gaiwan, 100–150 ml
- Water temperature: 95°C (203°F) — full boil is fine
- Leaf amount: 5 g per 100 ml
- First steep: 10–15 seconds, rinse first (discard the first 5-second infusion to soften the smoke intensity)
- Subsequent steeps: add 5–10 seconds each time
- Total steeps: 6–10
The rinse is important for traditional Lapsang. It removes the surface smoke dust and reveals the underlying tea flavor. Try brewing the same tea with and without a rinse side by side — the difference is dramatic.
Western Style
- Teaware: 500 ml ceramic or glass teapot
- Water temperature: 95°C (203°F)
- Leaf amount: 3–4 g per 500 ml
- Steep time: 2–4 minutes
- Re-steep: Yes, 2–3 times (the smoke softens with each steep, revealing more of the underlying tea)
For the full western timing chart across all Chinese tea classes, see our Chinese tea brewing temperature guide.
Cold Brew
Lapsang Souchong makes an exceptional cold brew. Use 8 g per liter of cold filtered water, refrigerate for 6–8 hours, and strain. The smoke softens dramatically, and the dried-longan sweetness comes forward. This is one of the best Iced teas in our iced oolong guide process too.
The Flavor Profile in Detail
A good traditional Lapsang Souchong has the following flavor notes:
- First impression: Soft pine woodsmoke, like sitting near a fireplace in a wooden cabin — not standing in the campfire
- Mid-palate: Dried longan, malt, dark honey, fig
- Finish: Cocoa, slight mineral, very gentle return of woodsmoke
- Body: Medium-full, smooth, with low bitterness
The smoke should never hurt. If your tongue stings, you’ve got either an over-smoked imitation or you’re brewing at too high a temperature with too much leaf.
Food Pairings
This is one of Lapsang Souchong’s best features — it pairs with food almost universally.
| Food | Why it works |
|---|---|
| Smoked salmon | Echo of smoke without competing |
| Aged cheddar | Smoke + sharp salt = magic |
| Chocolate (70%+ dark) | The cocoa in the tea echoes the cocoa in the chocolate |
| Beef stew, brisket, grilled steak | Smoke cuts through fat, adds depth |
| Maple-glazed pork | Maple sweetness matches longan in the tea |
| Eggs and bacon (breakfast) | The British have known this for centuries |
| Smoked almonds | Same logic as smoked salmon |
The classic British “cream tea” tradition — black tea with scones, clotted cream, and jam — works especially well with Lapsang because the smoke complements the toasted-bread notes in the scone.
Lapsang Souchong vs Keemun
Both are top-tier Chinese black teas, but they have very different personalities.
| Aspect | Lapsang Souchong | Keemun |
|---|---|---|
| Origin | Tongmu, Wuyi, Fujian | Qimen, Anhui |
| Aroma | Pine smoke + dried longan | Cocoa + honey + wine-like |
| Body | Medium-full | Medium |
| Caffeine (per 240ml) | ~50 mg | ~50 mg |
| Food pairing | Smoke-heavy food | Chocolate, cheese, eggs |
| Best for | Smoked food, breakfast, cold brew | Afternoon tea, dessert |
| Origin era | 1600s | 1875 |
If you want a clean, fruity, slightly smoky black tea for everyday drinking, Lapsang is the one. If you want a sophisticated, cocoa-forward black tea for afternoon service, Keemun is the one. They’re complementary, not redundant.
For a deeper side-by-side of the two flagship Chinese black teas, see our Keemun black tea guide.
How to Spot a Real Lapsang Souchong
Practical buying advice:
- Look for “Tongmu” or “Wuyi” on the label. If the label says “China” without specifying a region, it’s likely an imitation.
- Look for the producer name. Reputable sellers will name the cooperative or factory. Avoid nameless bulk products.
- Check the price. Authentic Tongmu Lapsang Souchong is $15–$40 per 50g. If it’s $5 for 100g, it’s imitation.
- Look at the leaf shape. Authentic Lapsang has long, twisted, dark strips. Imitation Lapsang has chopped, uniform pieces.
- Smell the dry leaf. Authentic smells like smoke + dried fruit. Imitation smells like smoke alone.
- Brew a test cup. Authentic has bright amber-orange liquor. Imitation has muddy dark brown.
Reputable specialty importers who carry authentic Tongmu Lapsang include Yunomi, Crimson Lotus Tea, and Tea Drunk. Prices for authentic Tongmu are typically $15–$40 per 50g.
Storage
Treat Lapsang Souchong like other black teas:
- Container: Airtight tin or sealed foil bag
- Temperature: Cool, room temperature is fine (15–25°C)
- Humidity: Low — avoid kitchens and bathrooms
- Avoid: Strong-smelling foods, direct sunlight, heat above 30°C
- Shelf life: 24–36 months for traditional Lapsang (the smoke acts as a mild preservative); shorter for fresh batches
For the full storage breakdown including pu-erh and white tea exceptions, see our how to store Chinese tea guide.
Common Mistakes When Brewing Lapsang Souchong
- Skipping the rinse. For traditional Lapsang, the rinse is non-negotiable. It removes surface smoke dust that would otherwise dominate the first steep.
- Brewing with too little leaf. Lapsang’s smoke needs enough leaf to balance. 2g in 500ml tastes like flavored water. Use 3–4g minimum.
- Using boiling water for too long. 95°C for 4 minutes is fine; 100°C for 8 minutes is bitter. The smoke can mask bitterness, so you’ll only notice if you pay attention.
- Writing off the entire tea class because of one bad experience. If you had imitation supermarket Lapsang, you have not had Lapsang Souchong. Try authentic Tongmu from a specialty importer before deciding.
- Storing it in the fridge. Unlike green and yellow tea, black tea doesn’t benefit from refrigeration. Room temperature in an airtight tin is perfect.
Caffeine and Health
Lapsang Souchong’s caffeine content is in the standard range for Chinese black tea: 40–60 mg per 240 ml cup, depending on leaf quality, water temperature, and steep time. Compared to coffee (95–200 mg per cup), it’s moderate.
For the full breakdown of caffeine across all six Chinese tea classes, see our caffeine in Chinese tea guide.
What Lapsang may support (FDA/FTC compliant language):
- Mental alertness — the caffeine content supports alertness
- Antioxidant intake — black tea contains theaflavins and thearubigins, antioxidant polyphenols
- Cardiovascular markers — observational evidence links regular black tea consumption with better lipid profiles
- Hydration — contributes to daily fluid intake
What Lapsang cannot do:
- It is not a treatment for any medical condition
- Statements have not been evaluated by the FDA
- Pregnant or nursing women should consult a healthcare provider about caffeine
For a broader view of Chinese tea and health, see is Chinese tea good for you.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Lapsang Souchong the same as Russian Caravan tea?
Not exactly. Russian Caravan tea is a blend invented in Europe, often mixing Lapsang Souchong with Keemun and oolong for a smoky-but-balanced cup. Real Lapsang is a single-origin tea. Russian Caravan is a result of Lapsang’s popularity, not the same tea.
Does Lapsang Souchong taste like smoke?
A real one tastes like smoke + fruit + honey + malt. The cheap supermarket version tastes like smoke alone. Big difference.
Can I use Lapsang in cooking?
Yes, it’s excellent for smoking meat alternatives, flavoring broths, and adding depth to chocolate desserts. The smoke is intense, so a little goes a long way.
Is Lapsang Souchong expensive?
Authentic Tongmu Lapsang Souchong is $15–$40 per 50g. Imitation Lapsang is $3–$10 per 50g. The price gap reflects the production gap.
Why did I dislike Lapsang the first time I tried it?
Almost certainly because you had an over-smoked imitation, not the real thing. Most Western exposure to “Lapsang Souchong” is imitation. Try authentic Tongmu from a specialty importer and reassess.
Can I cold brew Lapsang Souchong?
Yes — it’s one of the best cold brews in our repertoire. Use 8 g per liter, refrigerate 6–8 hours, strain. The smoke softens and the dried-longan sweetness comes forward.
Is Lapsang Souchong the first black tea ever?
It’s the first Chinese black tea that was exported to Europe and named as such. Other Chinese teas predated it (compressed tea, matcha-style powdered tea), but Lapsang is the original “black tea” in the Western sense.
Final Thoughts
Lapsang Souchong has a PR problem. The version that made it into tea bags and supermarket tins in the West was never the real thing, and generations of drinkers grew up thinking “smoke” was the whole story. It isn’t. Real Lapsang is sweet, fruity, layered, and surprisingly delicate — and it’s still made the same way it was 400 years ago, in bamboo drying houses in the Wuyi Mountains of Fujian.
If you’ve never had authentic Tongmu Lapsang Souchong, it’s worth trying once. Brew it gongfu, rinse the first steep, and let the second and third steeps show you what the tea is actually about.
For the broader context of Chinese black tea — including how Lapsang compares to Keemun and Yunnan Dianhong — see our Chinese black tea guide.
FDA disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. The statements regarding Lapsang Souchong have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. Lapsang Souchong is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. Pregnant or nursing women should consult a qualified healthcare provider regarding caffeine intake.